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Bicycle Workshop Standards

The difference between fixing your own bike and being trusted with someone else's. The systematic safety check, wheels and bearings, indexing to a standard, and working to torque.

Skill levelSome bike maintenance helpful
Time needed5–6 hours
Starter budget£40–90 for a torque wrench and chain checker
Step 01

The M-check: inspecting to a system

The single thing separating a workshop mechanic from a capable home mechanic is not skill with a spanner. It is that the workshop mechanic checks the same things, in the same order, every time — so nothing gets skipped when they are tired, busy, or certain the bike is fine. That system is the M-check, and it is the backbone of Cytech technical one.

Why the shape

Start at the front hub. Up the forks to the bars and stem. Down the down tube to the bottom bracket and chainset. Up the seat tube to the saddle and post. Down the seat stays to the rear hub. Trace that on a bike and your hands draw an M. There is nothing clever about it — the point is simply that a fixed route has no gaps, and a mechanic following one will find the loose stem bolt they would otherwise have walked past.

What you are actually testing at each point

Wheels
Spin for trueness and rub. Rock side to side for hub bearing play. Squeeze pairs of spokes for even tension and any that are loose or broken. Check tyre wear, cuts, and pressure; check the quick release or thru-axle is correctly closed.
Forks and headset
Front brake on, rock the bike forward and back — knocking usually means a loose headset. Lift the front and turn the bars: rough or notchy means worn bearings. Inspect the fork legs for cracks or crash damage.
Bars, stem and levers
Grip the front wheel between your knees and try to twist the bars — movement means a loose stem. Check bar tape or grips are secure, levers are tight to the bar, and cables are not frayed at their entry points.
Bottom bracket and chainset
Rock the crank arms side to side for bearing play; spin for roughness. Check crank bolts, chainring bolts, and pedals for tightness — and remember the left pedal is left-hand threaded.
Saddle and post
Try to twist and tilt the saddle. Check the post is above its minimum insertion mark, and that the clamp is at the correct torque rather than simply as tight as it will go.
Brakes and transmission
Pad wear and alignment, lever throw, cable or hose condition, disc rotor trueness and wear. Then the chain, cassette, mechs and shifting — covered properly in step 3.

Torque wrench, 2–24 Nm range

£30–70

The tool that makes the difference between guessing and knowing. Most bicycle fasteners live between 5 and 15 Nm, and both under- and over-tightening are failure modes — a loose stem bolt and a crushed carbon post are equally dangerous. A click-type wrench in this range covers nearly everything on a modern bike.

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Chain wear indicator

£8–20

A few pounds, and it tells you whether a £30 chain is about to cost you a £120 cassette. Measures chain elongation as a percentage; you check it at every service and replace on the number, not on a hunch.

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The check is a conversation, not just an inspection

In a workshop the M-check produces a job sheet: what is safe, what needs doing now, and what will need doing soon. Being able to explain to an owner why their chain needs replacing this month — and what it costs them if they wait — is part of what the qualification is testing. The mechanics people trust are the ones who explain.


Step 02

Wheels and bearings

Wheels are where bicycle mechanics stops being intuitive. A wheel is a pre-tensioned structure: the rim is held in compression by fifty-odd spokes all pulling inward at once, and truing it means adjusting that balance without destroying it.

The two kinds of untrue

Lateral run-out
The rim moving side to side as it spins — the wobble you see against a brake pad. Corrected by adjusting spokes on one side against the other: tighten on the side you want the rim to move toward, and usually loosen its opposite by the same amount.
Radial run-out (hop)
The rim moving up and down relative to the hub. Corrected by adjusting spokes on both sides together at that point — tightening a pair pulls the rim in, loosening lets it out. Harder to fix than lateral and often left slightly imperfect in favour of even tension.
Dish
Whether the rim sits centred between the hub locknuts, so the wheel sits centrally in the frame. A wheel can be perfectly true and badly dished, which shows up as the tyre rubbing one chainstay.
Spoke tension
The thing that actually determines whether the wheel survives. Even tension matters more than a perfectly true rim: a wheel trued by leaving some spokes slack will go out of true again within a few rides, and slack spokes are where fatigue failures start.

Bearings

Hubs, headsets and bottom brackets all come down to the same question: is there play, and is there roughness? Play is detected by rocking the component perpendicular to its axis; roughness by turning it slowly with the load off. Cup-and-cone hubs are adjustable and serviceable — you can strip, regrease and reset the cone tension. Cartridge bearings are pressed units, generally replaced rather than serviced. Knowing which you are looking at, and adjusting a cone to the point where play has just disappeared but the bearing still turns freely, is a Cytech-assessed skill.

Half a turn at a time, and always come back to where you started

The commonest way to ruin a wheel is a big correction. Work in quarter or half turns of the nipple, spin, look, repeat — and keep track of where the valve hole is so you always know your reference point. Truing is dozens of tiny decisions, not one big one.


Step 03

Transmission and brakes

Chain wear, and why it is the expensive one

A chain does not stretch — the metal does not lengthen. What wears is the pin and bush at every link, and the accumulated slop makes the chain's effective pitch longer than the sprocket teeth it runs on. A worn chain then grinds each tooth into a matching worn profile. Replace at around 0.75% elongation on a modern narrow drivetrain and the cassette usually survives; leave it past 1% and you are generally buying a cassette too, and possibly chainrings. This is the single most cost-effective measurement in a workshop.

Indexing, in the right order

Bad shifting is usually diagnosed backwards. The order that works: check the hanger alignment first, because a bent derailleur hanger makes every subsequent adjustment wrong; then the limit screws, which define how far the mech can travel at each extreme; then cable tension, which sets where it lands in between; then the B-tension, which sets the gap between the guide pulley and the largest sprocket. Adjusting cable tension to fix what is actually a bent hanger is the classic wasted hour.

Brakes

Rim brakes
Pads must contact the braking surface squarely, not overhanging the rim or fouling the tyre, often with slight toe-in to prevent squeal. Check the rim's own wear indicator — rims wear out and can fail catastrophically.
Mechanical disc
Cable-actuated. Adjust pad clearance both sides, align the caliper to the rotor, and expect more lever travel than hydraulic. Simple to service roadside.
Hydraulic disc
Sealed fluid system, self-adjusting for pad wear. A spongy lever usually means air in the system and needs a bleed. Never pull the lever with the wheel out — the pistons close and must be reset.
Contamination
The one that catches people. Oil, grease or brake cleaner overspray on a rotor or pad kills braking and usually cannot be cleaned out of a pad — the pads get replaced and the rotor cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Handle rotors by the edges.

Step 04

Torque, workshop practice, and Cytech

Working to a figure

Steel and aluminium bend before they break, which is what "tight enough" feels like in the hand. Carbon composite does not: it holds, then the fibres crush, and the damage is often invisible until the part fails under load. That is why carbon components carry a printed torque figure and why a torque wrench stops being optional the moment carbon is involved. The same discipline applies everywhere — most bicycle fasteners want somewhere between 5 and 15 Nm, and a stem bolt at 5 Nm when it wanted 8 is as much a safety issue as one wound up to 20.

The habits that make a workshop

Assembly compounds matter: anti-seize on titanium and between dissimilar metals, threadlock where a fastener is prone to loosening, carbon assembly paste — which is grip paste, not grease — where a carbon interface needs to hold without extra torque. Grease every thread you can. And keep the bike, the bench and your hands clean, because contamination is the enemy of every braking system on the bike.

You're here: workshop standards

This course

The M-check as a system. Wheel truing, dish and spoke tension. Bearing play versus roughness. Chain wear measurement, indexing in the right order, rim and disc brake service. Torque and assembly compounds.

2

Cytech technical one

Self-study or short course

The entry level of the UK's recognised bicycle technician scheme, run by Activate Cycle Academy and approved providers. Covers safe working, inspection and routine maintenance — the level for a confident home mechanic or someone entering the trade. Available by online theory route or in person.

3

Cytech technical two

Multi-week, assessed

The professional workshop standard, and the one bike shops actually recruit on. Assessed practical work across wheel building, hydraulic systems, drivetrain and full builds. This is the qualification that gets you employed as a mechanic.

4

Cytech technical three and specialisms

After experience

Advanced and specialist accreditation — suspension service, electronic groupsets, e-bike systems. E-bike work in particular is where the trade is short of qualified people.

Best resources

Worth owning

The bench reference

Park Tool Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair — procedures, specifications and torque figures in one place.

For wheels specifically

The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt — why a tensioned wheel works, not just how to true one.

Part ofWork on Bikes·Course 2 of 2

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