Bicycle Maintenance

The bike maintenance tool industry sells an enormous quantity of specialist tools you'll never use. The following is what you actually need to service a standard road or hybrid bicycle.

The drivetrain

The drivetrain converts your pedalling effort into forward motion. The chain connects the front chainring(s) (attached to the cranks/pedals) to the rear cassette (a stack of sprockets on the rear wheel). Shifting gears moves the chain between sprockets. Smaller sprockets at the rear and larger chainrings at the front make it harder to pedal but faster; larger rear sprockets and smaller chainrings make it easier. The derailleurs (front and rear) are the mechanisms that move the chain between these sprockets when you shift.

The braking system

Modern bikes use one of two systems: rim brakes (calliper or V-brake) which clamp pads against the wheel rim, or disc brakes which clamp a rotor attached to the hub. Rim brakes are simpler and more user-serviceable. Disc brakes offer better stopping power in wet conditions. Rim brake adjustment is covered in this course; hydraulic disc brakes require specialist knowledge and are usually best serviced professionally.

Tyre pressure: the most impactful five minutes in cycling

Check tyre pressure before every ride. Tyres lose pressure naturally through the rubber (typically 10–15 PSI per week). Riding under-pressure increases rolling resistance, makes steering vague, and significantly increases puncture risk (pinch flats, where the inner tube is pinched between rim and road, only happen when the tyre is under-inflated).

Find the recommended pressure on the tyre sidewall (usually printed as a range, e.g. "70–110 PSI"). Set pressure to the middle of that range. Heavier riders should go toward the upper end; lighter riders toward the lower.

A puncture is the most common mechanical failure. Being able to fix it roadside is the one skill every cyclist must have. This same process works at home or on the road.

1

Gather your tools: tyre levers, a spare inner tube or patch kit, a pump, and a small bucket of water if available. Shift to the smallest sprocket before removing a rear wheel. This creates slack in the chain and makes removal easier.

2

Remove the wheel: Open the quick release or undo the axle bolt. For rear wheels, push the derailleur back to free the chain. Lift the wheel clear of the frame.

3

Remove the tyre: Hook a lever under the tyre bead opposite the valve and lever it over the rim edge. Hook it to a spoke. Use a second lever 10cm away. Work the rest off by hand.

4

Remove the tube: Pull the inner tube out from inside the tyre, starting away from the valve. Feed the valve through the rim hole last.

5

Find the puncture: Inflate slightly and submerge in water. Bubbles mark the hole exactly. Or listen for the hiss and feel on your cheek. Mark the hole with a pen.

6

Find the cause: Run your fingertips carefully around the inside of the tyre to locate the thorn, glass, or wire. Remove it. If you skip this step, the new tube punctures immediately.

7

Fit the new tube: Inflate just enough to give it shape. Push the valve through the rim hole. Tuck the tube evenly into the tyre all the way around.

8

Refit the tyre: Starting at the valve, push the bead back onto the rim with your thumbs. Work around the wheel. The last section is tight. Push with both thumbs simultaneously. Avoid levers: they pinch the tube.

9

Inflate and refit: Inflate to half pressure, check the bead is seated evenly with no bulges. Inflate to full pressure. Refit the wheel, close the quick release, check brakes clear the tyre.

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