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Art1 September 2026 · 6 min read

What Pencils Do You Need to Start Drawing?

Two pencils: an HB and a 2B. A sketchbook and a putty eraser finish the kit. Here's why that's all you need, and what to buy later.


Two pencils: an HB and a 2B. Add a hardback sketchbook and a putty eraser, and you have everything a beginner needs to learn drawing, for under a tenner. The twelve-pencil tin, the light box, the drawing board, and the blending stumps can all stay in the shop.

The two pencils that cover 90% of drawing

Pencil grades describe how hard the graphite core is. H stands for hard, B for black, and HB sits exactly in the middle. Harder pencils give lighter, finer lines; softer ones give darker, broader marks. For a beginner the useful pair is HB and 2B:

  • HB. Medium hardness, good for light construction lines and the initial sketch of a shape. It makes marks that are easy to adjust and easy to ignore when the drawing develops past them.
  • 2B. Softer and darker, good for shading and bold lines. It lays down tone quickly, which is the job that takes up most of an observational drawing.

The drawing course is blunt about it: these two cover 90% of what you need. The 2H for fine detail and the 6B for deep shadow are tools for later, when the fundamentals are in place, not purchases to make in week one.

Why the full set is a trap

The twelve-pencil tin feels like progress, and that's exactly why it's a trap. Buying equipment before starting is a form of procrastination: it lets you feel like a drawer without drawing anything. A beginner with a full tin uses the HB and the 2B and leaves the rest untouched, and the tin sits in the drawer accusing them of not getting on with it.

The skill you're learning is not pencil management. As the earlier post on whether drawing is a talent explains, observational drawing is a seeing skill, built by drawing negative space, measuring proportions, and forcing the brain to look properly. Pencil variety plays no part in any of that. Two grades give you light lines for construction and dark marks for shadow, and that's the entire range the fundamentals need.

The sketchbook and the eraser

A hardback A5 or A4 sketchbook, around £4-8, is the second piece of the kit. Hardback matters: it survives being thrown in a bag, and it gives you a flat surface to work on anywhere. A5 fits in a coat pocket and is less intimidating to fill; A4 gives more room for measuring and shading practice. Either works.

The eraser is the piece beginners get wrong. The instinct is to buy a hard plastic eraser for correcting mistakes, but in observational drawing the eraser is an active drawing tool: a soft putty eraser lifts graphite to pull out highlights and refine edges without damaging the paper. You will use it to draw light into a shaded area, not to hide a line that went astray. A putty eraser costs about a pound and lasts months.

What you don't need yet

The list of things you don't need is longer than the list of things you do, and each item has a job that isn't yours yet:

  • Light box and drawing board. For tracing and desk work; neither teaches you to see.
  • Blending stumps. For smooth tonal gradients, a technique that comes months in, once you can reliably produce the tones you want to blend.
  • Charcoal. A different medium with different handling; it rewards someone who already understands mark-making, and punishes beginners with smudged confusion.
  • Coloured pencils. A separate discipline with its own rules about layering and pressure. Nothing about colour teaches you to see shape, proportion, or shadow.
  • Ruler. Perspective grids and measured plans have their place, but freehand measuring with a pencil held at arm's length is the skill you're building.

None of these are bad things. They're just things that belong to later problems. When you're six months in and smooth shading is the bottleneck, a blending stump is a reasonable purchase. In week one it's a paperweight.

What to spend, honestly

The whole start kit: an HB and a 2B pencil (about £1-3 for both, even from a supermarket), a hardback sketchbook (£4-8), and a putty eraser (£1). Under a tenner, and that's not a frugal compromise, it's the actual requirement. The course notes that Staedtler and Faber-Castell are reliable brands if you want them, but cheap pencils draw exactly the same lines in an untrained hand.

Two drills that use the kit well are a blind contour drawing of your own hand, which needs only the HB, and an introduction to one-point perspective, which needs both grades plus something to draw: a box, a chair, a window frame. Both take under fifteen minutes and both are worth doing before you buy anything else. The full sequence, from the first line to a finished shaded drawing, is in the free drawing from observation course, and it assumes exactly this kit and nothing more.

The short version

  • Two pencils cover 90% of beginner drawing: an HB for light construction lines and a 2B for shading and darker marks.
  • The complete start kit costs under a tenner: HB, 2B, hardback A5 or A4 sketchbook, and a putty eraser used as a drawing tool.
  • The twelve-pencil tin, light box, drawing board, blending stumps, charcoal, and coloured pencils are all purchases for later problems.
  • Cheap supermarket pencils are fine; the skill lives in the looking, not the equipment.
  • The eraser's job is to lift graphite and pull out highlights, not to hide mistakes.
  • Buy nothing else until the fundamentals are in place, which the free drawing course defines precisely.

Common questions

What do the letters and numbers on pencils mean?

H stands for hard, B for black, and HB sits in the middle. Harder pencils (H, 2H, 4H) make lighter, finer lines and hold a point longer; softer ones (B, 2B, 6B) make darker, broader marks. The number scales the effect: a 6B is much softer and darker than a B.

Do I need coloured pencils to start drawing?

No. Coloured pencil is a separate discipline with its own rules about layering and pressure, and it teaches you less about seeing than graphite does. Learn to draw in black and white first; the observation skills transfer to any medium you pick up later.

Is an expensive pencil better than a cheap one?

Not for a beginner. The drawing course notes that cheap supermarket pencils are fine to start, and that the skill lives in the looking, not the pencil. Staedtler and Faber-Castell are reliable if you want a known brand, but nothing in the first month depends on it.

Which pencil should I use for outlines and which for shading?

Use the HB for light construction lines and the first sketch of the shape, and the 2B for the main areas of shadow. The 2B is softer, so it lays down tone quickly and lifts off cleanly with a putty eraser when you pull out highlights.

Do I need a mechanical pencil for drawing?

No. A mechanical pencil gives you a constant fine line, which sounds useful and is a limitation: observational drawing needs soft, broad strokes that only a wooden pencil can make. The push-button pencil belongs in the desk drawer, not the sketch kit.

Learn this properly

Drawing from Observation

You don't need talent, you need to learn to see. Drawing from observation teaches you to put aside what you know and draw what's actually in front of you.

View course →
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