Conservatory Brickwork & Blockwork

Brickwork for a conservatory dwarf wall is manageable for a capable DIYer. The courses are short, the wall is low, and you're not dealing with loadbearing structural concerns. What matters is level, plumb, and the DPC detail.

Before you lay a single brick, establish your wall line with a string line pinned at both corners. This is your reference — every course follows it.

Corner profiles

Set up a profile board at each corner (a timber post with horizontal marks at each course height). This lets you run a string line between corners at the exact height of each course without measuring individually.

Gauge

Standard brick gauge in the UK is 75mm per course (65mm brick + 10mm mortar joint). Mark your corner profiles in 75mm increments. Every 4 courses should measure exactly 300mm.

Pier positions

Mark out where corner piers and intermediate piers sit. A pier at each corner, and typically one every 1.5m of run if the wall is over 600mm tall. These are structural points — get them on your base mark before you start.

Work from corners toward the middle. Lay two or three courses at each corner, then fill the run between them. Always check plumb at corners every second course.

Mortar consistency

Mortar should hold a peak when pressed with a trowel and not slump. If it's too wet it'll squeeze out of the joint; too dry and it won't key properly. Mix in small batches — mortar that's been sitting for 90 minutes is no good.

Frog up or down?

Lay bricks frog-up (the indent facing up) and fill it with mortar. This bonds better and gives more compressive strength than frog-down.

DPC course

When you reach DPC level (150mm above finished slab, or matching the existing house DPC), bed a continuous strip of polythene DPC into the mortar across the full width of the wall. Don't leave gaps. Lap at corners by at least 150mm.