Pasta: From Scratch

Make the well: Mound 200g '00' flour on a clean work surface. Make a well in the centre wide enough to hold two eggs without spilling. Crack both eggs into the well. Add a pinch of salt. The well must be deep enough. If the eggs break through, catch them with your hands and reform the well.

Combine: Using a fork, gradually beat the eggs into the flour from the inside wall of the well outward. Draw in flour a little at a time. Move too fast and the eggs escape. When it becomes too thick for the fork, switch to your hands. Work the rough mass together until no dry flour remains.

Knead: Turn onto an unfloured surface (the slight stickiness helps the gluten develop). Knead firmly for 8–10 minutes: press with the heel of your hand, fold, rotate 90°, repeat. Correctly kneaded dough is smooth, silky, and elastic: it springs back slowly when pressed. If sticky, add a small amount of flour. If dry, dip hands in water.

Rest: Wrap tightly in cling film. Rest at room temperature for 30 minutes minimum, though 1 hour is better. Resting relaxes the gluten, making the dough much easier to roll. Dough that won't roll thin without snapping back needs more rest, not more force.

Roll thin: Divide the rested dough in half. On a lightly floured surface, roll one piece into a rectangle as thin as possible: aim for 1–2mm (you should just see your hand through it). If it springs back, cover and rest 5 minutes. Dust both sides with flour as you roll to prevent sticking.

Cut tagliatelle: Dust the rolled sheet lightly with flour or semolina. Fold it loosely, not pressing down, into a flat roll. Cut across the folds at 6–8mm intervals. The cuts should be firm and quick, not dragged.

Unfurl into nests: Pick up a few strips and gently shake them open, unfurling from the folded cuts into ribbons. Arrange in loose nests on a floured tray. Dust with a little semolina to prevent sticking. Rest for 15–30 minutes before cooking, or use immediately.

Cook: Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil (it should taste of the sea). Add the pasta. Fresh tagliatelle cooks in 2–3 minutes: taste at 2 minutes. It should be al dente. Reserve a cup of pasta water before draining.

Serve immediately: Toss directly from the pot into a warm pan with brown butter and a few sage leaves, or cacio e pepe, or a slow-cooked ragù. Add a splash of pasta water if the sauce is too thick. Fresh pasta waits for no one. Eat it at once.